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Living in Huntington

Historic downtown Huntington is transforming itself into a charming and convenient place to live, work, and play.

Written by Carter Taylor Seaton / Photos by Nikki Bowman

There's much more to Huntington than you can fit into one weekend downtown. Here are some of our favorites within minutes of the city: For family fun and a large dose of Appalachian Heritage education, a tour of the Heritage Farm Museum and Village is a must. Owners Mike and Henriella Perry have reassembled log structures from all over the region into a 26 building village just outside the city limits. Many house the extensive collections of farm utensils, cars, and steam tractors; some hold a country store, a one-room schoolhouse or a church meetinghouse. Other log homes form the Heritage Farm Bed & Breakfast complex.

Nearby, in an old elementary school, the Museum of Radio and Technology features radios and television equipment from back in the day.  And, while you’re in the west end, look for Camden Park—the 106-year-old amusement park—complete with an antique carousel, a wooden roller coaster and 22 other rides. Or, indulge your antique bug at the Old Central City Antique District on 14th Street West. It was once a distinct manufacturing center before Huntington annexed it; now it’s an antique shopper’s mecca.

While you are in the vicinity plan to dine at one of the best Italian restaurants around—Rocco’s Ristorante—but make your reservations early, it fills up quickly. From April to October there’s always a line at Austin’s Homemade Ice Cream, the family owned roadside stand in Ceredo that’s only open part of the year. A few miles away, the décor of the Griffith & Feil Soda Fountain in Kenova will transport you back to the 1940s while they serve up burgers, fountain drinks, milk-shakes, and fried bologna sandwiches.

If all you know about Huntington is based on the movie “We Are Marshall,” or you remember the “Superblock” in the central shopping district that sat vacant for about 30 years following urban renewal demolition, you need to take another look. Yes, the city still bleeds green for the Thundering Herd, but its downtown has undergone a huge transformation in the last four years. Pullman Square—a quality-of-life center with eight eateries, eight retail shops, a sixteen-screen movie complex and a comedy club—now occupies that tract of land. And, best of all, the energy from the new development is also generating a downtown renaissance along the banks of the Ohio River.

Like many other cities, Huntington’s downtown suffered from the 1981 opening of a mall east of the city limits. Some long-time retailers moved; others struggled, and then closed as shoppers flocked to the 130 stores of the Huntington Mall Complex—now the largest in the state. In recent years, however, small specialty shops have begun to fill the once-empty downtown storefronts. Gone are the department stores, but in their place clever concept stores are breathing new life into the historic buildings.

Shopping

At Pullman Square, the foot traffic is brisk. In good weather a horse-drawn carriage winds through town carrying camera-clicking riders. Reminiscent of the Huntington of the 1950s, shoppers, browsers, and people-watchers again roam the sidewalks and rest on the benches surrounding the center’s open-air park. On summer nights, music often emanates from the train-station-platform-like stage while listeners relax on blankets and lawn chairs across the grass. Serious shoppers are finding that special book or magazine at Empire Books & News, the perfect cosmetics at Merle Norman, the smartest casual fashion statement at Chico’s, or the latest design from Ed Hardy at Runway Couture—one of a trio of stores catering to teens and young adults. The others, Heels and Inspired, offer shoes and accessories exclusively.

Across the street, Mug & Pia, Latta’s Toy Station, and Le Cook Store capture their share of shoppers, too. All three retailers chose their location because of the excitement spilling from Pullman Square. Kim Sarka Lake, owner of the curiously named Mug & Pia—an acronym for Most Unique Gifts & Paper Items Anywhere – came out of professional retirement to capture her dream: owning a paper product store. She felt that with Pullman Square’s traffic, the location was right; but there was another factor, as well. “I love the building itself; it has a lot of charm,” she says. Open only since last April, her dream is now reality and she’s busy filling orders for snazzy invitations and stationary from locals and visitors alike.

Latta’s Toy Station grew from customer demand, according to Mike Mullarky. He’d heard the requests to add educational toys to his family’s school and art supply store for years, but knew there wasn’t room. Then the opportunity to open a shop downtown selling educational and special-needs toys came his way. “Pullman Square has attracted thousands of people a week coming through for entertainment and food, so we felt it was a natural, great locale to be in for us. Because of the location, the foot traffic is excellent. People are coming across the street after they eat or go to the movies. And, because we are in between two hotels—Pullman Plaza Hotel and Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites—people are coming in town and picking up items to take back home to their families.”

Shawn Bresnahan, the force behind Le Cook Store, moved to Huntington to open his unique store offering all the kitchen gadgetry, tools, and cookware any amateur gourmet chef could want. “My sister, who does a lot of shopping center development, thought it was a pretty big growing area and talked me into coming to take a look,” he says. “I took a look at Pullman Square, then looked across the street at all the old buildings and thought I’d rather do it in the older ones that have a historic look to them.” Noting that the owners were gutting the space to reveal its original brick walls, Bresnahan signed the lease and opened in 2006.

Not all is new in the city’s shopping district, however. Family owned since 1910, C.M. Love Hardware is one of the last places to provide personal service along with your hardware purchase. Since 1970 Glenn’s Sporting Goods has been the place to go for athletic gear. Boasting a name you can trust since 1949, Mack & Dave’s offers a wide variety of new and used musical instruments, electronics, appliances and jewelry. Unique fashions for the whole family also are available in downtown Huntington. City Kids & Co. caters to the littlest members. George H. Wright & Co. has been a staple of men’s fashions since the 1920s—and in the same location. Wender’s and the Village Collection have been female favorites for over twenty-five years. One of Huntington’s oldest retailers, C. F. Reuschlein Jewelers, Inc., has been the go-to place since 1892 for estate and antique jewelry, a bridal registry, repairs, and a long tradition of personal service. Although they’ve moved a few times, Reuschlein’s 20-foot-tall, four-sided Seth Thomas clock has followed and remains a well-known Huntington landmark.


Downtown Living 

Much of Huntington’s downtown architecture dates from the turn of the 19th century when ornate facades and turreted towers were in vogue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Downtown Historic District—bordered north to south by 3rd and 5th Avenues and east and west by 10th and 7th Streets—covers 315 acres and includes 59 buildings of historic and architectural significance. Unlike many cities whose modernization destroyed its past, Huntington has retained scores of its beautiful structures. They still grace the geometric grid of wide streets and avenues laid out by the city’s original designer. The recent restoration of many grand old buildings by local investors and developers has prompted some to call it “the new urbanization,” where people live, work, and play downtown. One of the oldest bank and office buildings has been transformed into luxury condominiums. Additional loft apartments or flats are gradually appearing above hardware stores, or former furniture and variety stores. This activity is attracting young professionals and retirees alike to the new urban living spaces.

Dr. Byron Clercx, chair of Art and Design at Marshall University, had lived in Minnesota, California, Washington, and Idaho before coming to Huntington. He and his wife, Lynn, initially made a typical Huntington real estate decision—they bought an old brick home in one of the city’s early residential neighborhoods. Here scores of Arts and Crafts houses face quiet, tree-lined streets, many still paved with the brick that originally held the trolley tracks criss-crossing the city. Then the couple attended a party in one of Huntington’s renovated loft apartments and was hooked on downtown living. “When we moved here four years ago, I was amazed at how passionate people are about this town and about wanting to make it better,” says Lynn Clercx.  When the loft became available, they sold their sprawling house and moved.  She continues, “Now we are at Pullman Square three or four times a week just walking around. I think it’s fabulous. We weren’t all that active where we used to live, but here, you just get caught up in it. You meet the people and you just can’t say no.”

Culture

Visitors and newbies to Huntington often are amazed by what the natives have enjoyed all their lives. For over fifty years the Huntington Museum of Art has presented a stunning array of art to the region. Its permanent collection boasts works by American and European Masters, collections of fine English silver, antique firearms, Ohio Valley glass, Middle Eastern art and Islamic prayer rugs, folk and Haitian art, an Alexander Calder sculpture, a conservatory and a brilliant tower of glass by Dale Chihuly. The largest art museum between Cincinnati, Pittsburgh and Richmond, it routinely mounts world-class exhibits and offers ongoing art classes for adults and children including an annual series of Master Artist workshops.

In 2006, the ornate Keith Albee Theater designed by Thomas Lamb and built in 1928 became the Keith Albee Performing Arts Center and is now home to the Marshall Artists Series—the 72-year-old town and gown performance series—and to the Huntington Symphony Orchestra. The Marshall Artists Series regularly presents Broadway plays, world-renowned ballet companies and big name performers. Add the orchestra’s annual schedule of concerts, including a summer pops series at the Harris Riverfront Park Amphitheater overlooking the mighty Ohio, the student performances by the Marshall University Theater troupe, and the twice-yearly International Film Festival and your cultural calendar is full.

Recreation

Family fun and kickback entertainment rank high at the Big Sandy Superstore Arena, where Monster Trucks compete for dates with Kid Rock and Sesame Street Live. Each summer the Ritter Park Amphitheater atop the city’s 71-acre urban green-space echoes with song as the Huntington Outdoor Theater presents its weekly musical productions. Ritter Park offers other amenities for the whole family: extensive walking trails, a manicured Rose Garden, picnic shelters, top-shelf tennis courts, and two playgrounds.

Festivals play a large part in the city’s recreational life, too. Every food that can be celebrated is. Annual chili-fests, barbeque cook-offs, rib-fests, and a hot dog festival complete with wiener dog races are held at Pullman Square or Harris Riverfront Park. The Greek Orthodox Church has a festival; the Lions Club has a Christmas arts and crafts show; the Kiwanis Club has a pancake breakfast and the model train lovers have an exhibit to delight every child or former kid.

Athletes can find stiff competition in the annual flat course Marshall University Marathon and the St. Mary’s Medical Center Tri-state Triathlon held at nearby Beech Fork State Park. And of course, diehard sports fans pour onto Marshall University’s campus to watch the Thundering Herd take on the formidable foes of Conference USA or other ranked football and basketball teams. Women’s sports—especially basketball and softball—are a spectator delight as well. Marshall’s beautiful campus east of downtown is accessible by a free bus ride from Pullman Square.

Dining

With the variety of dining options downtown, you’d think there’d be no waiting. Not true on many nights. Crowds swarm to Pullman Square for casual fare at Max & Erma’s or the slightly more upscale offerings at Frankie D’s Italian Chop House. Both have outdoor patios overlooking the plaza below. On street level the Marshall Hall of Fame Café across 3rd Avenue serves up Marshall sports memorabilia along with its casual cuisine and tableside television sets. For coffee, tea, and a smile from Vicky or Pete Cooper swing over to 4th Avenue’s Old Village Roaster. Smells divine because the beans are roasted and ground on the spot.

For fine dining with a to-die-for wine list, Savannah’s, in a 1900s-era former residence, is only a reservation away. The Hibachi Japanese Steakhouse and A Taste of Asia both offer tableside cooking and culinary antics by their fun-loving chefs. Nawab Indian Cuisine offers an alternative international menu. For a quiet drink or dinner in an old world setting with occasional live music, 21 at the Frederick is the place to be. But if funky is your bag, try Charley’s Diner and eat among the Harleys—motorcycles, that is, or head to Knuckles for sandwiches with an attitude.

If Huntington seems steeped in tradition, Jim’s Steak and Spaghetti House embodies that feeling. Opened in 1938 by Jim Tweel, the family tradition continues with his daughter, Jimmie, now at the helm of this Huntington favorite. It’s been the can-we-do-lunch-spot for dignitaries, comedians, boxers, movie stars, and Presidential hopeful John F. Kennedy. Photos capturing the glitterati line the walls above the cozy booths. To the east of the historic district you also must try Chili Willi’s Mexican Cantina, the Tex-Mex temple of spicy cuisine for 25 years, and the fresh catch-of-the-day at Jewel City Seafood Market.

Lodging

Whether you come for a weekend or longer, there are plenty of accommodation options. The Pullman Plaza Hotel and the Holiday Inn & Suites are both within the city’s historic district and nearly 2000 additional sleeping rooms surround the city. Heritage Farm Bed & Breakfast offers a unique lodging alternative just west of the central city.

Whatever your choices, you’ll leave Mr. Huntington’s city fully satisfied. And if you’d like to thank him, his statue stands in front of the city’s old C&O Railroad Station, now home to CSX Railroad. And who knows, he might convince you to stay.

 

Some Favorite Finds

Shopping
C. M. Love & Co.
Shop for a wide variety of tools, hardware and housewares.
1002 3rd Avenue
304.525.5128
http://www.love.doitbest.com/home.aspx

Empire Books & News
This independent bookseller offers a wide variety of magazines, books by local authors and Pulitzer Prize winners. Large children’s book department, too.
30 Pullman Square
303.529.7323
www.empirebooksandnews.com

Runway Couture, Heels & Inspired
Trendy fashions, handbags and shoes for teens and young adults with the latest
designs from Ed Hardy, Betsey Johnson and Christian Audigier. 
Pullman Square
304.522.2229
www.fashionsbyinspired.com/locations.html

Latta’s Toy Station
It’s a parent’s paradise: educational and safe non-violent toys, plus a wide selection of infant toys. Special activities, theme parties and story time.
943 3rd Avenue
304.781.0008

Le Cook Store
Kitchen gadgets, gourmet treats and great cookware. What more could an amateur chef want? Regular cooking classes, too.
911 3rd Avenue

Mug and Pia
The most unique gifts and paper items anywhere – the name says it all. Photo albums, keepsakes, and custom designed invitations, stationary and cards.
939 3rd Avenue
304.525.7880
www.mugandpia.com

Pet Palace
An amazing array of pet supplies, clothing, toys and treats. Pampered pets board in their own suite complete with an LCD television.
335 9th Street
www.petpalacewv.com

Village Collection
Tony fashions for women who want unique separates, dresses, accessories and handbags.
900 4th Avenue
304.525.2204

C.F. Reuschlein Jewelers
Timeless and estate jewelry, gifts, classic china and silver since 1892.
947 3rd Avenue
304.697.7710

George H. Wright Men’s Clothing
Classic suits, Hilfiger casuals, shirts and ties for men. Women’s department, too.
952 4th Avenue
304.525.7834

Dining

Chili Willi’s
Enjoy this Tex-Mex Temple of Spicy Cuisine with attitude, authenticity and atmosphere.
Eat in or carry out.
1315 4th Avenue
www.chiliwillis.com

Hillbilly Hotdogs
It’s beyond casual. They’ve got weenies, monster hotdogs, burgers and all the fixin’s you can imagine.
1501 3rd Avenue
www.hillbillyhotdogs.com/newHillbilly.swf

Jim’s Steak & Spaghetti House
The famous and the home folks have loved their world-class spaghetti for over seventy years.
920 5th Avenue
304.696.9788

Marshall Hall of Fame Café
Marshall University memorabilia themed sports bar and casual restaurant serves American cuisine. Tableside televisions.
857 3rd Avenue
304.697.9800
www.halloffamecafes.com/prod/marshall/default.htm

Savannah’s Restaurant
Fine dining in a turn of the century setting with an award winning wine list. Reservations recommended.
1208 6th Avenue
304.529.0919
www.savannahsmenu.com

Max & Erma’s
Enjoy seasonal patio dining overlooking Pullman Square’s park and fountain, great burgers and hot chocolate chip cookies.
Eat inside year ‘round.
16 Pullman Square
304.781.3545
www.maxandermas.com

Frankie D’s Italian Chop House
Warm, casual dining spot featuring grilled prime cuts, extensive wine list and occasional live music.
26 Pullman Square
304.781.3022
www.frankiedsitalianchophouse.com

Things To Do

Pullman Square
Attend concerts on the lawn; take a carriage ride; enjoy a festival or simply people watch.
It’s the place to be.
Third Avenue
304.522.3203
www.pullman-square.com

Keith Albee Performing Arts Center
This former movie house is now home to the Marshall Artist Series and the Huntington Symphony Orchestra.
925 4th Avenue
www.keithalbeearts.org

Big Sandy Superstore Arena
The main attraction for family shows, sporting events, exhibit shows and concerts.
700 3rd Avenue
304.696.5990
www.bigsandyarena.com

History

Collis P. Huntington, the city’s founder and namesake, might not be surprised at his town’s rebirth, for he was a man of great vision. After the railroad baron’s Central Pacific railroad met the Union Pacific line at Promontory, Utah in 1869 to make transcontinental travel of the United States possible, he turned his sights toward the Ohio River Valley. Seeking a suitable spot to serve as a transfer point between his newly purchased railroad, the Chesapeake and Ohio, and the Ohio River’s many cargo and passenger boats, Huntington selected land around what then was called Holderby’s Landing, sent his brother-in-law, Col. Delos W. Emmons, to buy up the farms and hired Boston civil engineer Rufus Cook to design the town. Two years later, on February 27, 1871, the city was incorporated.

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