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ShepherdstownWest Virginia’s oldest town fuses historic charm with modern appeal. Written by Katie Hanlon / Photography by Nikki Bowman 
As a gateway from the Washington, D.C. metro area to the rest of the state, Shepherdstown successfully straddles the line between urban and country. It embodies simple chic—a well-cultured, close-knit, modern Mayberry that welcomes the creative and eclectic as well as the traditional. Visit this happy “snow globe” in any season and experience a truly uncommon enclave. History and Revitalization Colonial settlers began migrating to the Shenandoah Valley in the early 1700s and when the Colony of Virginia started issuing land grants, Thomas Shepherd was given 222 acres on the south bank of the Potomac River. He laid out a grid, which is now the downtown area, and after petitioning the Virginia assembly, Mecklenburg was given a charter in 1762. Shepherd governed the municipality until his death in 1776. At that time the residents decided to govern themselves and honor their founding father by changing the town’s name to Shepherd’s Town. Besides being an important historical dot on the maps of the American Revolutionary and Civil Wars, the town also claims industrial events like James Rumsey’s successful demonstration of the first steamboat which occurred on the Potomac in December of 1787. Unfortunately Rumsey’s untimely death resulted in little attention and credit for the invention, but Shepherdstownians keep that name alive with tributes like Rumsey’s Tavern located in the Clarion Hotel & Conference Center as well as the Rumsey Monument, just a short five-minute walk past downtown, which offers a breathtaking view of Maryland, old train trusses, and the river itself. The Potomac also played a large role in early settlers’ means of living. The waterway, as well as the springs feeding it, set the perfect conditions for all sorts of crafts like tanning, milling, and metal smithing. Additionally, the rich clay soil lead to the logical industry uprising of brick making, and one will notice the exceptional amount of old brick on most of the town’s buildings. One such structure, The Entler Hotel, remains a Shepherdstown landmark and is the home of the Historic Shepherdstown Museum, several businesses, and a small events center for gallery openings, weddings, and social gatherings. It was this very building which is said to have furthered the town’s interest in preserving its great history and after going through several incarnations since its construction in the 1700s—a tavern, hotel, men’s dormitory, and warehouse for Shepherd University maintenance crews—the building became unfit to occupy. Concerned citizens banded together to buy the property from the university for one dollar in 1972 and saved it from demolition. Director of Historic Shepherdstown Cindy Schott says, “Renovating the Entler Hotel sparked other town renovations—a lot of citizens’ blood, sweat, and tears went into changing the face of Shepherdstown into what we love today.” Live & LearnEducation has always been a priority in Shepherdstown. Two free schools were built there in 1848—one still stands on the corner of Princess and New Streets—and when West Virginia became the 35th state of the Union in 1863, the two schools became the oldest in the state while Shepherdstown claimed the title of West Virginia’s oldest town and served as the Jefferson County seat until it was moved to Charles Town in 1871. Residents didn’t take long to figure out what should be done with the abandoned courthouse. The very next year the building was chartered as a “Classical and Scientific Institute” making the architecturally striking structure, currently McMurran Hall, the birthplace of what is now Shepherd University—an award-wining liberal arts college. The town and the school have been inextricably linked ever since. Shepherd University may just be one of West Virginia’s best kept secrets. For the fifth year in a row, it’s been named one of the best colleges and universities in the southeast by the Princeton Review and designated as the top-ranked West Virginia public baccalaureate institution for the second year in a row by U.S. News & World Report. And prospective students are starting to take notice. Enrollment for the fall 2009 semester hit record highs due to program distinction, increased retention, and higher graduation rates. And students as well as residents enjoy the addition of facilities like the expanded Scarborough Library and the College Center which houses everything from a bowling alley to a concert friendly coffee house. Furthermore, Shepherdstown is staying healthy with the newly opened $21.6 million Wellness Center featuring the most technologically advanced fitness equipment, a 25-yard pool, and an elevated indoor jogging track. But Shepherd students aren’t just taking care of themselves. Early in 2009, largely due to the efforts of Director of Student Community Service Holly Frye, Shepherd was named to the Presidential Honor Roll for Community Service which is the highest federal recognition a school can achieve for its commitment to service-learning and civic engagement. “It was at Shepherd that I really understood the value of investing my time in helping others,” says Kathleen Waitz Noland, 2006 education alumnae and Morgantown native, on the importance of extra-curricular good works. “I feel like this town took care of me and became my home as a student—it was important to me, and should be important to current students to give back.” Think TheaterIn celebration of their 20th season, CATF is raffling off a contemporary theater getaway weekend. The Grand Prize includes two tickets to all five shows, two nights lodging at the Bavarian Inn, Dinner for two at Stone Soup Bistro, and a behind the scenes tour—a great opportunity to experience Shepherdstown. Winners will be announced March 1, 2010. Find out more at www.catf.org. Celebrate Good TimesShepherdstown’s days are filled with an uncommon amount of activities geared towards community involvement. Playing host to everything from marathons to street fairs to heritage celebrations and theatrical performances, the city has fun happenings throughout the year for just about everyone. This winter, brave the chilly evening air to experience the elegance of a Victorian holiday with Christmas in Shepherdstown. For two weekends after Thanksgiving, Shepherdstown lights up with festive greenery and entertainment like carriage rides, caroling, photos with Santa, bonfires, a grand parade, and a holiday gala concert. The charming buildings become even more picturesque with the light from hundreds of luminaries lining the street at dusk. This awe-inspiring event is an annual favorite and a full calendar of events can be found online at www.christmasinshepherdstown.com. As the weather warms up, the town comes together again for the annual Shepherdstown Street Fest. In addition to the fantastic artists and vendors, the talented musicians, and the fine food, 2009’s Street Fest was able to make donations to local organizations demonstrating yet one more way that this close-knit commonwealth combines fun and charity. The gaiety continues when the Bavarian Inn celebrates its annual Oktoberfest on the last Saturday in September. Three to four thousand people gather each year for the traditional polka bands, activities for the kids, and of course delicious German fare. But outside of the city limits, Shepherdstown might best be known in cultural circles as the home of the annual Contemporary American Theater Festival (CATF) at Shepherd University, which for the past 20 seasons has prided itself on producing and developing the best new American plays. “The exciting and unique thing about CATF in Shepherdstown,” says Associate Producing Director Peggy McKowen, “is that you might not typically associate one with the other, but ultimately it represents what’s amazing and historically innovative about our town—what we have is a culture that is very proud and aware of their roots and therefore open to new artistic endeavors.” DowntownLuckily, there doesn’t have to be a celebration going on in order for visitors to have a good time. On any given Saturday, expect to share the sidewalks of German Street with weekenders meandering in and out of the bustling shops. Find yourself whistling along with pick-up musicians on the McMurran lawn, or enjoy pastries—like out-of-this-world cupcakes—from the Shepherdstown Sweet Shop bakery. Be sure to come on an empty stomach—it could take weeks to properly experience the vast range of cuisine offered in this small town. Don’t miss a classic Sunday brunch at the Yellow Brick Bank, one of Shepherdstown’s mainstays, or breakfast at Betty’s Restaurant. This straightforward diner serves up honest food like eggs any way with their signature deep-fried home fries. Shepherd students have been known to wait up all night after lengthy study sessions just to grab a booth inside. For lunch, there’s no shortage of casual dining spots. The Blue Moon Café, whose sandwiches like the Veggie Smack—roasted vegetables on a flaky croissant—and appetizers like Bowl of Beans—seasoned black beans and cheddar served with tortilla chips—are the stuff of legend. Other tasty options include the unique offerings and ambience of Shaharazade’s Exotic Tea Room, Mellow Moods which boasts dishes and juices made only with locally grown organic produce, or Maria’s Taqueria that offers a new take on fresh and simple SoCal fare. But don’t sit back and loosen your belt buckle just yet. China Kitchen may just be the freshest Chinese- American food you’ve ever had. With specialties like Kung Pao Chicken and Egg Drop Soup, one taste is sure to cause cravings. Gerald Frederick of Bridgeport, who spent four years visiting his daughter when she was a student at Shepherd, says, “Any time I want to order take-out, I can only think about China Kitchen and their Pepper Steak. It’s the whole reason I love to go back to Shepherdstown and visit.” And if all the eating hinders your shopping, pop in to the Lost Dog Café for a pick me up. Concoctions like the Vanilla Wet Dog—two shots of premium espresso mixed with vanilla syrup, sweetener, soda, and a slice of fruit—keep thirsty patrons quenched until dinner at which time taste buds will be torn between the tantalizing smells filling the air on opposing sides of the street. Food fans can’t go wrong with two of the most amazing fine dining experiences in the state. At Stone Soup Bistro chef and owner Liz Gallery draws on her global cuisine experience to create interesting twists on classics like Vegetable Lasagna—featuring locally grown organic produce. And while Stone Soup’s menu is ever changing, one mainstay of each dinner service is a thoughtful pairing of the nightly special and a signature cocktail. Across the street at The Press Room, folks can’t get enough of Executive Chef and owner Mike Luska’s delicious dishes. Favorites like the Grilled Calamari appetizer—served on crusty Italian bread with sweet red pepper, lemon, butter, and garlic—are sure to please every palette. But eateries aren’t the only businesses that are booming in Shepherdstown. In fact, shop hopping is a favorite pastime of townies and visitors alike. Work your way through the latest in ladies’ fashions in boutiques like Blue River and She Town Divas then finish off an outfit with high fashion footwear from Steppin’ Out. Accessorize with eclectic bags and a huge selection of precious gemstone jewelry from Sky’s The Limit. Maybe you’d like to commemorate your trip with a different sort of souvenir like an original work of art from Dickinson & Wait Craft Gallery or gourmet food finds from Grapes & Grains and the German Street Coffee & Candelry. Outdoorsmen will enjoy Kelly’s White Fly Shop and kids will love to play with the specialty toys in One Two Kangaroo. You can even experience the town and its gorgeous surroundings on wheels with a bicycle rental from Pedal & Paddle. The town's charm is so irresistible, don’t be surprised if you feel the need to pick up and move. Resident Adrienne Wright did just that. Originally from Pennsylvania, Wright decided to stay in town with her daughter, Willow, after college. She says, “I love raising a ‘Shepherdstown kid’ for so many reasons. People here really look out for one another. We’re a true community—and these days, that’s incredibly rare.” Indeed, this happy little hamlet has an effect on those who visit. Cari Rosen, artist and owner of PLUM jewelry, says, “Shepherdstown just has something special about it. I’ve lived here my whole life and it fills me with pride each time I get to speak with out-of-towners that stop into my shop.” Rosen, like Wright, also holds a deep appreciation for the overwhelming sense of community that citizens portray. She says, “My husband and I call Shepherdstown our ‘snow globe’—a happy place that even in the stormiest of conditions is warm and welcoming.”
Resource GuideDINING The Bavarian Inn ENTERTAINMENT LODGING SHOPPING |
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